Classic, always achieved in the past, those times are remembered, everything is beautiful. But no matter who we are, what abilities we have, how many connections we have, there is no way to turn back in time and enjoy the innocence that humans once possessed. We can only press the flyback button and imagine that we are restarting the elapsed time. With the retro flavor emitted by the watch, we enter another realm. Or, in fact, this is enough.

Time to fly back, restart the classic
 Fei is a vocabulary that people often use to describe speed. Flying fast, flying, flying legs, walking like flying, and time flies. Time really flies, and it comes faster than anything that can fly, so all of a sudden, youth ends, and work begins; all of a sudden, the busyness is over, the sky is dark; all of a sudden, the child grows up and leaves Suddenly, her hair was pale, and there were two tired legs shouting after climbing a few stairs. I hope you do n’t fly in time, or fly back with us.

1815Chronograph does not have a large calendar, but with a simple and elegant faceplate, it exudes the classic flavor of the old times.
 If you can go back in time and re-experience those memories that only exist in your mind, it should be a good thing. After all, people always love nostalgia, miss things that are called ‘classic’, and create a beautiful age of classics. A song, a camera, a car, a movie, there are nostalgic works in each era. The watch is also, so no matter how powerful the electronic watch is, it still has a retro-style dial.

In 2018, Lange replaced the 1815 Chronograph with an 18K rose gold case, exuding a warm color.
 What does a retro dial look like? For example, the track-type minute scale, a frame with a frame on both sides of a straight line in minutes to form a grid-like scale like a train track. Such designs appeared in large numbers on pocket watches in the late 19th century, when the train flourished. It is trendy for those who live in that space-time background, but it is undoubtedly retro in the eyes of modern people. Of course, marking the minutes in this way is also good-clear and quick to know the exact information when reading the time. The Lange 1815 series watches use the orbital minute scale, with Arabic numerals, like Lange pocket watches more than a hundred years ago.

1815Chronograph 18K rose gold case, diameter 39.5 mm, hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph, pulse meter, L951.5 hand-wound movement, 60 hours power reserve, sapphire crystal glass and case back, crocodile leather watch Strap, white gold case with black dial.
 For a historic brand, it is a glorious thing to be able to retell its story, especially when the brand founder is still a key figure influencing the development of precision timing equipment throughout the country. No wonder Lange wants to use FerdinandAdolphLange’s birth year (1815) as the series name. Every 1815 watch has the shadow of a pocket watch, even if its performance exceeds people’s requirements for pocket watches, the flyback chronograph is one of them. This mechanism appeared on the wristwatch around the 1930s. When pilots must time on the battlefield where every second counts, they only need to press the reset button and release it to start another time. It is not a traditional chronograph. You must press the stop button, then the zero button, and then the start button to start another timing.
 The principle of flyback is actually not difficult, because in addition to letting the lever push the heart-shaped cam on the chronograph hand wheel and pressing the hand back to the 12 o’clock position, it can also clutch the timing and travel time system; that is, That is to say, separate the travelling wheel train and the central chronograph seconds hand gear before returning to zero, then reset to zero, then connect the timing and travelling system again, and complete three actions by pressing the time of one handle.

The diameter of the L951.5 hand-wound movement is 30.6 mm. It consists of 306 parts (34 stones, 4 gold sleeves), an eccentric weight balance, a vibration frequency of 18,000 times per hour, and a power reserve of 60 hours.
 The chronograph is inherently fun to operate, and it is more interesting to operate a chronograph with flyback capability. As if you can make time go backwards by pressing the handle, you can directly go back to the original point and start again in the continuous counting process. However, the really powerful technology of 1815Chronograph lies in the precise instant jump integration mechanism, which means that the hands on the scoreboard can jump to the next scale at the instant when the timing is exactly 60 seconds. Yes, not all chronographs can do this. Most of the chronograph minute hands are when the central chronograph second hand reaches the position of 50 seconds, it slowly advances to the next scale by half a division, and it does not jump until the time is 60 seconds. Segmentation is not in place, it’s just that in the eyes of demanding collectors, it’s not enough refreshing. A jump integral mechanism like Lange can only be called smart.

For the purpose of aesthetically deliberately curved parts, the multi-level chronograph structure is more complicated. With superb chamfering and polishing, it can be described as a top chronograph.
 Watching this brilliant technique can be on the surface or on the back. Lange’s movement is always so beautiful that even the simplest entry-level models, such as balance bridge carving, gooseneck trimmer and even a chamfer, can attract the attention of watch lovers. The chronograph movement is more exciting, especially the L951.5 hand-wound movement with horizontal clutch mechanism, which places the travel time and the timing system on the same plane, and no one blocks it. In the process of pressing the handle, the gears are connected and separated, and the moment when the pawl hooks the chronograph minute hand gear every 60 seconds, the picture is also displayed.

Among the top timepieces, A. Lange & Söhne ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER is a masterpiece of technology: this ingeniously designed watch combines mechanical skipping display and decimal minute repeater . ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER is Lange’s first watch to report hours, ten minutes and minutes. Whenever the button touches the beeping device, the watch will display the current digital time in sequence, and the sound will be emitted in sequence. Every hour the dial time passes, a low tone sounds, while a double tone and a high tone represent every ten minutes and every minute, respectively.

The engineers used the basic principle of the word-jumping device when developing the beep function of ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER. The time of the watch is not displayed by hands, but by means of an hour circle and two minute dials. The three worm gears connected to these mechanical display elements will extract the timekeeping numbers corresponding to the hours, ten minutes and minutes, respectively. ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER activates the beeping device with a smart button system, replacing the traditional slide mode. In order to achieve the highest sound quality, the engineers made the movement and case with meticulous care. The tuning process relies on both hands and keen hearing to make the two gongs emit loud sounds and reverberations at the same time, and the sound quality is perfectly integrated.
 At 7:52, seven basses, five doubles, and two trebles are emitted. The time signal sound exactly corresponds to the time displayed on the dial.
Meticulous design
After countless procedures and comprehensive fine-tuning processes, the various devices driven by the movement composed of 771 parts can run smoothly and ensure that the device can always play the best effect. In order to avoid damage to the operation due to accidents or potential risks, designers have added very practical safety devices. Since setting the time during the beep sequence will cause mechanical components to conflict, the watch owner will not be able to pull out the crown after activating the beep device. After the beeping process begins, the winding gear train is separated from the power-providing ratchet. This preset prevents the winding gear train and crown from turning when the gong is struck, avoiding wasting a lot of power. The digital disk switching process is also delayed until the beep sequence ends. Among them, the ringing time at 12:59 is the longest, which takes about 20 seconds. Therefore, the timekeeping sound will always correspond to the time displayed on the dial.

Lange homemade L043.5 movement

In order to avoid the three-question sequence being interrupted in advance due to the power consumption of the mainspring (the watch will also stop running at this time), the beeping device will not start when the power reserve is less than twelve hours. In this case, a red mark appears on the power reserve indicator. Because the mainspring powers the beeping device through a ratchet, the number and length of the minute repeater will affect the basic power reserve of up to 36 hours.
Presenting a distinguished tradition in contemporary design
ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER with clear jumping display is a design example and is particularly eye-catching. The built-in patented constant-power escapement provides equal energy throughout the power reserve and drives the switching device, which reliably controls the digital display every minute.

The calibre L043.5 in the ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER is carefully modified by hand. The balance wheel, eccentric weight and self-made cardless hairspring under the hand-carved balance wheel splint can vibrate 18,800 times per hour. This beeping chronograph is made of platinum 950 with a diameter of 44.2 mm. The solid silver dial exudes silver-gray light. The time bridge, made of black rhodium-plated German silver, surrounds the hour and minute digital windows on the same plane. Black polished steel hammers are neatly arranged on both sides of the small seconds dial. On the left is the clock, and on the right is the one-minute minute. And every ten minutes, the two hammers will ring the gong at the same time, making two sounds.
Lange’s ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER is the second model in the ZEITWERK series with an acoustic time display. Its extraordinary design cites Lange’s milestone on the road to innovative watch concepts.

It is another Mid-Autumn Festival night. In my impression, Mid-Autumn Festival belongs to a circle, a moon-like circle, a moon-cake-like circle, and a family reunion circle. Circle is the theme at this time, and it is also a concrete manifestation of traditional Chinese humanities and culture. Facing this moon that is about to be completed, for watch enthusiasts, it is natural to think of a timepiece with a moon phase function. For hundreds of years, watchmakers have continued to dig and explore the moon phase. A bright and sophisticated moon phase watch, sometimes precise and sometimes interesting, can also satisfy the wearer’s imagination of the bright moon.

What is ‘Moon Phase’?

   The moon phase is the manifestation of the shape of the moon in different periods, sometimes full like a jade plate, and sometimes like a boat. The moon phases at different times bring us different astronomical observation experiences. The moon phase function on the watch was developed based on this inspiration. Through the operation of some gear components on the mechanical timepiece, the rotation of the moon on the moon phase window on the disk is driven to present the empty moon at this time on the wrist in an obscure manner. The yin and qing of the phase changed. Although this magical watch function can only add a glimpse of our lives, there is no extra practical effect.

Lange Grand Lange 1 Moonphase “Lumen”

   However, people still fall in love with this elegant and classic disk design. From the time of the clock, the moon phase function can be traced (early astronomical clock). Nowadays, as the simplest astronomical function on clocks, it is a major embodiment of watchmaking skills for watchmaking brands. For the wearer, such a moon phase watch often makes the dial more beautiful, and it is also a reflection of self-worth and personal taste.
This year’s refreshing moon phase table
Rolex Moon Phase Type

   As mentioned in the previous article, in addition to the launch of the explosive new sea dweller this year, Rolex also added an impressive moon phase watch to the Cellini series, which is also one of the rarest Rolex brands Watch with moon phase function. When I saw the exhibition materials at that time, I was deeply attracted by the face of this watch, and even then I bet with my colleagues to guess that this year’s explosion is it. In addition, this Cerini moon phase type is not exactly the same as the traditional moon phase presentation. Let’s take a look together:

   Different from previous moon phases, the entire moon phase type seems to retain the Rolex characteristics while also being accompanied by an innovative side. White lacquered disc, blue enamel moon phase disc at 6 o’clock, showing full moon and crescent moon. The way the moon phases are presented is also different from the daily moon phase functions. The full moon is symbolized by a circular meteorite, and the new moon is represented by a silver ring. According to the moon’s profit and loss cycle, the appearance of the moon at this time will be displayed under the inverted triangle mark just above the moon phase disk, which is unique and highly representative, so that it will become a highly watched model in the watch exhibition.

The Hublot Big Bang Soul Series Moon Phase Wrist


   This year, Hublot has also worked hard on the moon phase, both in terms of design and function, it looks unique and dazzling. Four monochrome watches in blue, purple, orange and pink, paired with the same color strap, quartz dial, sandblasted moon phase dial, hands, time readings and gem-set bezel, have created a life-like for this monochrome watch series Visual tone. The moon phase disk runs at 6 o’clock and completes the cycle every two new moons. The semi-transparent sandblasted dial features two rounds of the moon pattern, which are painted in corresponding colors. The grasp of the shades makes the moon phase changes more eye-catching, intuitive and highly ornamental.

Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Lune Moon Phase Watch


Despite being a niche, Parmigiani’s moon phase watch is also very beautiful, especially this year. The upper part of the black dial with pebbled satin processing is equipped with the northern and southern hemisphere moon phase displays, and there are other prominent dials around the dial to display the entire lunar cycle on the dial: new moon, first quarter moon, full moon, and second quarter moon, showing the moon is different Another beauty of the period. Not only that, the southern hemisphere moon phases corresponding to the northern hemisphere will also be revealed in the next moon phase disk. Gathering a plate in February brought double the beauty of the moon phase. The moon phase display only needs to be adjusted once every three years, which is more convenient. Of course, the watch is also equipped with the iconic curved lugs of the same series and a simple, ultra-thin micro-rotor automatic winding movement, which is entirely designed, developed and produced by the Parmigiani watch factory.

Grisutti Perpetual Calendar Red Gold Watch


   If you like the concise style moon phase watch of the German system, then you can take a look at this parliamentary watch in red and gold. Polished red gold case, lacquered, silver frosted grain dial, although it has many functions such as stop seconds, perpetual calendar, week, big calendar, month, leap year and moon phase display, but the dial still gives a simple and elegant style, layout Neat, giving the watch a dignified and neat visual effect. Inheriting the brand’s exclusive moon phase design, the inclined starry sky forms the shape of a crescent, and the moon travels through it, which is intoxicating.

Petak Philippe Ref. 5320G New Perpetual Calendar Watch


   One of Patek Philippe’s new products is a retro-style watch, inheriting the brand’s classic analog date display and moon phase display window design, and added a small day / night display window (between 7 and 8 o’clock) As well as the leap year cycle window (4 o’clock and 5 o’clock), it forms a whole with the elegant moon phases, bringing an excellent viewing experience. In addition, this watch not only correctly displays the date of each month, whether the month is 28 days, 30 days, or 31 days, it can also automatically display the next day, that is, the 29th day of February.

Longe Richard Lange ‘Terraluna’ Perpetual Calendar Watch


  Although this watch is not made this year, it is actually an astronomical moon phase watch delivered to the store this year. In July this year, we saw the real thing when we visited SKP in Beijing. This watch was officially launched by the brand on SIHH in 2014. It is difficult to see the complicated watch models on sale in the market. It is a little fortunate to be able to meet this big cow watch. The iconic design of overlapping three sets shows Lange’s top watchmaking craftsmanship. However, it is most worth mentioning that the powerful astronomical function on the back of the table shows that the moon orbits the earth in a disc according to the laws of the movement of celestial bodies, contrasts with the 2116 stars on the gold disc, and closely combines the calendar with astronomy. It is impressive to shrink the spectacular and magnificent astronomy above the watch dial.

   In addition, the moon phase display only needs to be corrected one day every 122.6 years, and can accurately show the position of the moon relative to the earth and the sun. Watching the beauty of the moon on the star-studded caseback is a treat for watch fans.
Summary: The combination of moon phases and time constitutes an inescapable moon phase watch. Elegant and classic, from the unique creative design to the extremely complicated function presentation, it has a figure, giving mechanical watches a different kind of elegant beauty. For this Mid-Autumn Festival, it is also very good to choose a timely moon phase watch. When the full moon is lifted off, it is opposite to the wrist.